It is that time of year when the Dragon dancers roam the streets and the air is perfumed with the pungent scent of firecrackers. In China, orange trees typically bear fruit in shop windows during the Lunar New Year (Feb. 14 this year), banks offer red envelopes for customers to give monetary gifts to children, and the Kitchen God is off to the Heavens for his annual report on the households over which he watches. What better way to celebrate Lunar New Year than to discover star anise, a spice little used in the West, but the source of a recognizable taste in many favorite Chinese dishes?
Star Anise, also known as Chinese or badian anise, is the fruit of a small evergreen tree native to southwest China. The trees begin to bear fruit when they're about 6 years old and continue for up to a century, producing a narcissus-like yellow flower that grows into a brown fruit before opening into an eight-pointed star. Each point is a pod with a tough outer bark and contains a shiny deep amber-hued seed. Both the bark and seed are pulverized to make the spice. Star Anise, which is harvested before ripening, and the more familiar anise, a parsley relative, both contain anethole, the essential oil responsible for the licorice flavor, but star anise has a stronger taste. (You might recognize the flavor in cough syrups; it's also a component in some pet foods and in Tamiflu.)
Star anise: West catches up to East
In China, it is one of the master spices, used as an ingredient in five spice powder, in braised and stewed dishes, and is especially prized as a flavoring for pork and poultry. In Vietnam, star anise is frequently added to soups such as pho. It provides the je ne sais quoi taste in several Indian masalas.
An English sailor is said to have first brought the spice to Europe in the 16th century where it was originally used as mousetrap bait. (Its Latin name, illicium verum, means "lure" or "bait.") By the 17th century, some cookbooks indicate, star anise was used in fruit syrups and jams, but it never really caught on. Until now. Western chefs are finally discovering the spicy-sweet flavor that permeates Eastern cooking. Star anise can be purchased in Asian markets and specialty food shops and, when whole, has a long shelf life if stored in an airtight container.
The entire star-bark and seed are used when the spice is ground. Grillers can add a few pieces to their fuel for a particularly aromatic smoke. Pop a whole star and an onion into the cavity of a chicken before roasting -- a perfect way to celebrate the Lunar New Year. You can also prepare your own spice combos for use anytime.
Five spice powder
1 whole star anise
1 tablespoon sichuan peppercorns (available here) 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 3-inch piece stick cinnamon
7 or so whole cloves
Place all the ingredients in a spice grinder and pulverize until you have a fine powder. Traditionally, equal amounts of each spice are used, but you may wish to adapt by tipping the flavor balance slightly to your own taste.
Spiced salt
¼ cup coarse salt
2 tablespoons five spice powder
Dry roast the salt in a heavy frying pan until well heated. Add the five spice powder and stir for a few minutes. Cool, grind and place in an airtight container. Sprinkle on roasted, grilled and fried meats; raw and deep-fried vegetables; or use to season foods before deep frying.
Jessica Harris is the author of 10 critically acclaimed cookbooks documenting the foods and foodways of the African Diaspora.
Photo of star anise by Carole Gomez
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