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Great Griddled Broccoli Print
Broccoli gets a bad rap because it's so often overcooked. Griddle to the rescue.
By Clifford A. Wright   |   Friday, 21 January 2011   |   08:35

broccoli

Everyone has a food they dislike or a least favorite food. I don't mean a food allergy, which is something else entirely. Food dislikes come about for many reasons, but the ones that interest me are the ones that I believe come about because of poorly chosen or cooked food.

Of course there are food dislikes related to taste buds and other complex physiological and psychological reasons, and there's just no explaining them. I don't like grapefruit. I can eat it if I have to, for instance, when a hostess has put it into their summer fruit salad. But for as long as I can remember I've never liked grapefruit. It's the only food I can think of that I don't like.

My youngest son doesn't like cucumber. He can't explain it and when his sister said "that's stupid, cucumber is only water," he just shrugged. I know people who simply cannot tolerate the taste of coriander (cilantro) leaf.

There are two foods people quite often claim they don't like and I believe their dislike is not based solely on inexplicable taste bud rejection like my grapefruit or my son's cucumber, but is based on how the food was improperly cooked or served the first time they ate it. Broccoli and beets. Of course broccoli and beets may just be the grapefruit and cucumber of some people. But I don't think so.

Perfectly cooked broccoli

Let's take broccoli first. Broccoli, and all cruciferous vegetables, must not be overcooked, otherwise chemicals in the plant break down and release sulfurous compounds, such as ammonia and hydrogen sulfide, and interact with the chlorophyll in the plant, which causes the broccoli to turn an unappetizing brownish-gray color and to have a very unpleasant smell.

This chemical reaction is the reason people who say they don't like broccoli probably don't like it. I imagine that at a young age they ate overcooked broccoli. Broccoli should always be cooked in small amounts of water until it is crisp-tender and retains its bright green color; it should never be cooked until limp.  griddled broccoli

That means broccoli should never be cooked more than seven minutes maximum at a boil and preferably only four to five minutes. It should be drained immediately and never left in hot water and it should be plunged into ice water or put under cold running water to stop its cooking unless you're serving it immediately. President George H.W. Bush famously said he didn't like broccoli at all, and I'll bet as a youth someone cooked him sulfurous broccoli.

A broccoli dish I serve will make a broccoli lover out of anyone. It's simply Griddled Broccoli.

Fresh beets to please

As for beets, when I hear someone say they don't like beets I can bet that's because they've only had them out of a can. But fresh farmers market beets cooked properly and served as a colorful salad will change the mind of any naysayer. First, however, they will hardly recognize what they are eating as beets. The perfect dish to convert a beet haters Pancar Salatası, a Turkish dish that simply means beets with yogurt. But, oh my, it's more than that.

Griddled Broccoli

Serves 4

Ingredients

2 pounds broccoli, stems peeled, split lengthwise
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt to taste

Directions

  1. Preheat a cast iron griddle over medium-high heat.
  2. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil, salt lightly, and cook the broccoli 4 minutes and drain immediately and rinse under cold water or plunge into a bowl of ice water to stop its cooking. Let drain.
  3. Lightly oil the griddle and cook the broccoli, cut side down, until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes, turn and cook 1 minute, then remove from the heat, salt lightly, and serve.

Pancar Salatasi

Serves 6

Ingredients

4 pounds red beetroots (about 7), trimmed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 cups whole plain cow’s milk yogurt
½ teaspoon caraway seeds
4 large garlic cloves
½ teaspoon salt
Hot paprika for sprinkling as a garnish

Directions

  1. Put the beets in boiling water and cook until tender, when a skewer glides easily to their center, 2 hours. Drain and once they are cool enough to handle, peel. Slice the beets in ¼-inch thick slices and arrange on a platter slightly overlapping and let them come to room temperature, if desired (you can serve them now too, still warm). Season with salt and pepper.
  2. In a mortar, pound and grind the caraway seeds until crushed then add the garlic and salt and pound until mushy. In a bowl, beat the yogurt and garlic mixture until smooth, then spread over the beets. Sprinkle with paprika and serve.


Clifford A. Wright won the James Beard / KitchenAid Cookbook of the Year award and the James Beard Award for the Best Writing on Food in 2000 for "A Mediterranean Feast."

Photos, from top:
Broccoli.
Credit: Lori Shepler
Griddled broccoli
Credit: Clifford A. Wright

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Love Broccoli
Clifford, I love broccoli although as a child I didn't like it at all. I think it was because my mom made frozen broccoli, not fresh, and she always over boiled it. It got grey and disgusting. I roast it, saute it, steam it, stir-fry it - any which way you make it. This looks delicious. I also hated brussel sprouts too. Now I love them. My son doesn't like brussel sprouts, cauliflower (even though he likes broccoli) and zucchini. I try and sneak the veggies into him in some way. Tonight I mixed cauliflower bits with rice and he couldn't tell the change in the dish. Thanks for a great idea!
a guest , January 27, 2011
Broccoli parts
The comment below is quite right about broccoli's two parts, stem and floret. However, the method described in the recipe does not require cooking the broccoli stems and florets separately as they are split lengthwise allowing the stem portion the same amount of cooking time as the floret. It is cooked as briefly as it is in boiling water because it then goes onto the griddle.
cliffordwright , January 25, 2011
...
Clifford, broccoli is made of two distinct parts, the stem and the floret. To cook them together for the same amount of time is to ignore their different properties. The stem, when carefully peeled of its tough green sheath, is delicious and my husband will gladly trade the florets away for it. The stem needs to be cooked longer than the florets. Depending on its freshness and size, I cook it at a boil for about 3 minutes before adding the florets, which I cook for another 7 minutes. I drain immediately and toss with salt, vinegar, and olive oil. There is no sour taste to it whatever, in fact it is almost sweet. Incidentally, the cooking water must be salted, which yields emerald green broccoli. I cook vegetables for flavor and tenderness, never for crunch.
marcellamm , January 25, 2011

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Last Updated on Friday, 21 January 2011 09:17
 

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