I often hear wine lovers complain that all Bordeaux reds are now expensive luxury collectibles for trading, not affordable drinking. Really?

This second label of Château d'Issan in the Margaux appellation shows that's an oversimplification. Even in the widely panned 2007 vintage, the wine offers the kind of elegance, balance and character that made Bordeaux famous. At $30, it outclasses just about any California cabernet in the same price range.

Ranked a third growth grand cru in the historic pecking order established by the 1855 classification, Château d'Issan is owned by the well-known Cruse family. D'Issan, one of the prettiest chateaux in Bordeaux, complete with moat and swans, allegedly provided the wine for the wedding of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Henri Plantagenet back in 1152.

Since Emmanuel Cruse became a director at 25 in 1993 and then took over management in 1998, quality has gone up and up, thanks to massive renovation of the vineyards, winery and cellar -- and the introduction of this second label.

As at other Bordeaux estates, the best grapes from the oldest vines and top spots in the vineyard go into the grand vin. Blason, like second wines from other famous properties, is made from younger vines  and a smaller percentage is aged in new oak barrels. As a result, it's ready to drink much sooner. The 2007 is lighter-bodied than most vintages, with less concentration, yet still has the perfumed aroma and silky red fruit taste of a Margaux.

The vintage's cool, wet summer was one of the most difficult Cruse had faced, requiring expensive work in the vineyard that paid off when a warm sunny September saved the day. The poor reputation of 2007 Bordeaux has deterred many buyers. But this charming claret shows that even in so-so years, great terroir shines through.

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