It’s hard to find a good cheap pinot noir. Most under-$20 examples are just light but dull reds or over-charged fruity plonk -- either way, they lack the seductive style that makes the classic grape of Burgundy so appealing.

That's why the 2009 Veramonte Reserva Pinot Noir grabbed my attention. Tart, fresh and succulent, with a balance of scented aromas, soft fruit and silky texture, this is a drink-me-now bottle that could be mistaken for a top-class bourgogne rouge.

Chile isn't the first region that pops into mind when the subject of pinot noir comes up. Some 20 years ago, Veramonte pioneered the country's cool Casablanca Valley area, which is warmer than New Zealand's major districts but cooler than most of California's pinot spots. Clearly, they were on the right track.

Veramonte's first plantings of pinot noir date from 1998, and the first bottles were released a few years ago. The winery now has the recipe down: The grapes are hand-sorted before de-stemming and whole-berry crushing, followed by several days of cold maceration. Fermentation in open-top tanks, then malolactic fermentation in oak barrels and 10 months of aging all help bring out the wine's straight-forward appeal.

This isn't a wine you study, it's one you drink with pleasure, preferably on the cool side from large goblets. Grilled salmon fillets, tuna steaks, roast chicken, veal stew and soft aromatic cheeses are all perfect partners for this food-friendly red.

You don't have to study the price tag either. For the cost of a fancy oh-so-precious label from Burgundy's Cote D'Or, you can get half a dozen bottles of this screw-topped bargain for your wine rack, and feel smug when you swirl a glass.

Elin McCoy is a wine and spirits columnist and author of "The Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the Reign of American Taste."

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Agree that pinots from Casablanca and Leyda valleys can be very good. I'm also a fan of Casa Marin pinots from San Antonio Valley near the ocean. BTW, in the U.S. the William Cole pinots are more expensive, mostly around $12 to $13.
Thanks to all for their suggestions. . .
Elin McCoy

a guest , February 28, 2011

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The Ventisquero Reserva Pinot Noir is around 12.99/13.99 and a very excellent choice as well. It is from Casablanca.

a guest , February 28, 2011

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Pinot noir from Casablanca and Leyda valleys, similar or better than this are sold under $ 10 near my house, at "Diez" winery & spirits store, in Providencia, Santiago. I recommend Casablanca's "William Cole" ($ 8) and "Casas del bosque" (same price), but Leyda produces something better for $10. If you want something extraordinary, taste Amayna (Leyda) for $ 25. Veramonte costs here $ 12, but I still prefer William Cole.
I feel so lucky!!

a guest , February 24, 2011