Some people have the impression I think California chardonnay ought to taste like white burgundy. Not true. I'm a fan of wines that taste like the place they come from. This 2009 Morgan Double L Vineyard chardonnay is a superb California example that would never be mistaken for a bottle from France, but it's no over-the-top buttery-oaky white.

Fleshy, creamy-textured, and full of varietal lemon, pear and hazelnut aromas and tastes and a sweet vanilla, toasty hint of oak, it has an attractive edge of minerality too.

Part of the secret of the wine's character and balance is the grape source. The Double L Vineyard is in the northern part of the Santa Lucia Highlands, where cool breezes from Monterey Bay sweep across the vines in the afternoon. The warm sun, wind, fog and cool temperatures from the ocean add up to a long growing season with, which in turn means the vibrant acidity and fruit that make this wine terrific with food.

Morgan Winery, founded by Dan and Donna Lee in 1982, was one of the first to grow grapes organically. The Double L vineyard was farmed that way since it has been planted in 1997 and was certified organic since 2002.

Another key ingredient in the recipe of balance is deft winemaking. Only a third is fermented in new oak, just enough to give the wine texture and spice without overpowering the fruit or dulling its edge.

Though its smooth creaminess and bright lemony tang are a perfect match with a savory seafood stew, this white has enough flavor to go beyond fish and chicken and pair with a rich, succulent pork loin.

And it's one more reason not to give up on California chardonnay.

Elin McCoy is a wine and spirits columnist and author of "The Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the Reign of American Taste."

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