The 2008 Pullus G Traminec, a lovely white with rich aromas of wild roses, tangerine and lychee, is just one reason to explore the fascinating wines of Slovenia, the world's latest vine spot to generate buzz. Crisp and fresh, it's loaded with lovely green herb and spice flavors, has a lightly creamy texture, and will convert even those who think they don't like gewürztraminer (called traminec in Slovenia). It's lighter, crisper and more delicate than California or Alsace examples, with a real taste of terroir, and I found it a perfect match with a dinner of coconut milk-shrimp curry.

Slovenia -- wedged between Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia -- has been known for vines and wines since Roman times, but started grabbing international attention only a couple of years ago. During the 1990s, its wine industry began shifting from the cooperative model prevalent during the communist era (when it was still part of Yugoslavia) to private estates aiming for high quality, and its winemaking community has become a hotbed of innovation and idiosyncratic producers.

Pullus is a new label created in 2007 by the Perutnina Ptuj Group, which took over historic Ptujska Klet (Ptuj Wine Cellar), in the town of the same name, in 2002. The cellar holds the oldest wine archive in Slovenia, with vintages going back to 1917. The winery and vineyards are in the Podravje region in the country's northeast corner, which is almost entirely devoted to whites. The largest of Slovenia's three wine areas, Podravje has hot summers, cool dry winters, and hillsides of vines growing on gravel and clay.

While most Slovenian wineries today are small family domaines, Pullus has nearly 1,000 acres of vineyards and produces several lines of mostly whites, and a few reds. The G line is intended to show off the terroirs of top vineyards, and this one certainly does.

If you've never tried a Slovenian wine, this gewürztraminer is a good beginning.

Elin McCoy is a wine and spirits columnist and author of "The Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the Reign of American Taste."

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Thanks for commenting. Elin

a guest , May 10, 2011

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I'm excited about the potential of Slovenia, too, Elin, now that they're lifting the yoke of co-ops. Recently had a nice little friulano called Quattro Mani Exto Gredic Vineyard [Toh-Kai].

a guest , May 10, 2011