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Me-a Shearim, Jerusalem's ultra-orthodox quarter, was agitated not long ago. A poster, or pashkevil in Hebrew, warned neighbors to be careful and to avoid going to Nechama, one of the oldest and most beloved bakeries in the holy town. For more than 100 years its challah has had a reputation for being irresistible.
"Our eyes got dark, our soul got frightened and our body shook watching the lewd scenes rampant till 4 o'clock in the morning in the bakery square," says the poster. "Men and women with loose morals spend their time together over there." Translation: In the ultra-Orthodox communities, men and women don't freely socialize, but Nechama's customers, perhaps overcome by the sensorial overload of its delicious breads and pastries, are considerably more relaxed.
Preparing the challah dough at Lehamim bakery in Tel Aviv. Braiding a small loaf of challah.
Nearing the end of the braid.
Tucking in the ends of the dough.
A round sesame challah with honey, symbolizing a sweet year to come.
Challah, fresh from the oven.
Preparing the challah dough at Lehamim bakery in Tel Aviv. Braiding a small loaf of challah.
Nearing the end of the braid.
Tucking in the ends of the dough.
A round sesame challah with honey, symbolizing a sweet year to come.
Challah, fresh from the oven.
Challah, sometimes called "the Jewish bread," is a braided loaf eaten on Shabbat, the resting day of the week, and other Jewish holidays. It is made traditionally from lots of eggs, white flour and sugar.
The best bites from this tasty sweet bread are enjoyed just after it comes out of the oven. At Lehamim bakery in Tel Aviv, or Sin City as the people of Jerusalem call it, the line for challah on Friday mornings is almost endless.
"I am here with you now because we sold the last challah," says smiling Uri Sheft, the baker-owner of Lehamim, from the safety of his office. "I ran away so I wouldn't have to face the angry customers. It will take 30 minutes for the new ones to come out from the oven; they won't forget that I made them wait."
Every week, from Thursday evening through Friday afternoon before sundown, Sheft bakes more than 1,200 loaves of challah with his staff. Before Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, which was celebrated in September, Sheft baked as many as 6,000 of these golden loafs. "Challah is like a drug," he says. "It is an addiction. People say to me: 'Do not mess with my challah!' They know what they want for the weekend and ask for no surprises."
Holiday challahs
Besides the regular loaves, that start at $4 each, there are special challahs for special events. The collection of the braided pastry is impressive: A ringed version for Rosh Hashana symbolizes the cycle of life and is sometimes flavored with raisins. A small plate of honey placed in the center represents a sweet new year. On Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement, some bake a challah in a shape of a ladder, hoping that on its steps their prayers will rise to God.
At Viznitz, the most famous bakery in Bnei Brak, an ultra-orthodox suburb of Tel Aviv, you will see huge challahs, some as long as a meter and costing up to $100. They are as tan as the sunbathers on Tel Aviv's beaches, sprinkled with poppy or sesame seeds to taste. Annointed with butter, nothing else, every Israeli would swear the bread is “the taste of heaven.”
Return to traditional home baking
In recent years, more and more people have been making their Shabbat challah at home. The scent of fresh Jewish bread filling the house makes all the difference -- not just when it comes to meals. "They say that if you would like to sell your house, bake a challah," says Sheft, who teaches challah-making courses in English at his bakery. "The buyer would smell it, feel at home and buy the property."
Tzvi Cohen, owner of the 60-year-old Hatzvi bakery in Bnei Brak, offers challah dough to-go for those who would like to bake it at home but are pressed for time. "A good friend of mine started to bake challahs at home believing the bread will bring happiness to her single grown up children," says Dorit Barak, a tourist guide in Bnei Brak.
According to the poster in Me-a Shearim, the challah at Nechama seems to be doing the trick.
Zester Daily contributor Ofer Vardi, a Tel Aviv-based journalist, is the author of "Going Paprikash," a best-selling Hungarian kosher cookbook. After years as a television journalist and editor, Vardi is now the Lifestyle editor of Israel Hayom daily newspaper, and the owner and editor in chief of LunchBox Press.
Photo: Challah stacked on a trolley at Jerusalem's Viznitz bakery. Credit: Avi Paz
Slide show credit: Daniel Layla
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In Bnei Brak we like the challahs from "Vizhnitz Bakery",
and our homemade challah is Uri Sheft's recipe....